Hi guys, I’m Andy and this time we’re going to complete the axle installation with a steering stabilizer on the auto-editing Jeep set-up.
Now I’ve decided on this Jeep Wrangler steering stabilizer and there are a lot of reasons for it, but look at this bad boy first. I’m going to talk to you about the difference between a traditional push-pull style and one that is a continuous wave.
Let’s get this started through the shaft.
Some of the features
So, before we mount this thing under the jeep, let’s go over some of the features and the difference between this and what is now considered the standard push-pull damper on the front of the jeep for a steering stabilizer This thing here has an aluminum body so it’s a neat trick 6063 aluminum so it’s like a high-quality aircraft-grade aluminum shaft through the damper body and fk spherical end bearings here now this is the mid-tier damper in the icon setup, they have some kind of universal damper, they have this type and then they have this type with an external reservoir so I don’t even know if this is necessary to me and I expect a lot from my rig but if you just want that look or that aesthetic look, how cool that is, you can imagine doing that with a piggyback reservoir, it’s pretty badass this is my old Rocksport Steering Stabilizer.
You would see this as a typical push-pull style shock absorber and the shock compresses and then opens and now opens. This is not a nitrogen-filled shock absorber, so there shouldn’t be a shock, but a traditional push-pull style shock absorber inherent to these forces is this centerline style shock absorber that gives you a constant damping force on the shaft across the entire steering regardless of the impact. This is going to be kind of cool. I’m curious to see if I actually feel a difference we get the thing on it, but those are the differences that weren’t bad I was very satisfied with this thing that’s just a step up, that’s the basics now as I said in the intro this is very easy and upgrade installation with high reward for you guys.
The only reason I’m not doing this for everyone and for beginners is that you need a specific tool. Now I’m going to be using my heavy-duty torque wrench because we’re going to be assembling into the tie rod bracket and that’s an important thing to get tight on and the instructions on that actually call for you to get 150-foot pounds so you’ll have to break out that one tool to make sure you keep your tie rod taut. That’s it, this is going to be a quick and easy a really high reward on this scale I’m excited to drive it and see how it feels.
Installation of steering stabilizer
To begin the installation, loosen the screws that secure the stem stabilizer to the stem mounts and remove the stem stabilizer.
Then, lift the stabilizer bracket off the tie rod and install the double center bracket using the U-bolts provided, making sure the edge of the bracket is against the differential case, but do not fully tighten at this point.
Install the screw and washer on the bracket and install the bracket on the tie rod with the offset portion of the bracket inward. The offset must be inward so that the stabilizers do not penetrate when turning.
Install the cover plate, install the stabilizers on the center bracket by leveling the bracket horizontally, and tighten the hardware.
Attach opposite ends of the stabilizer cylinders to the tie rod bracket bolts. Vehicles with two and a half inches of a stroke may need to adjust the handlebar collar to move the clamp bolts away from the stabilizer cylinders, tighten all brackets slightly, and rotate the steering wheel back and forth.
Make adjustments to the tie rod brackets to allow full stroke of the stabilizer cylinders. This is done by moving the tie rod brackets inward
or pull out after the brackets are centered.
All right, let’s do a quick test now. Drive-in and see how it feels right away I’ll tell you right away, I was hoping that the steering would stay nice and light, that certain things get cramped and this one feels great.